Thursday’s Picture of the Week: Russia

Photo or restoring Russian church in Moscow

Behind the scenes: It’s 1991 and Jeffrey is working on assignment for Travel Holiday in Moscow. Preeminent writer, Orville Schell, has written an in-depth piece about the renaissance of the Russian Orthodox church, and Jeffrey has been hired to photograph the story.

It’s a mind-numbingly cold January day when Jeffrey walks through Red Square with his interpreter, Alexi. People all around are dressed in heavy wool coats and classic fur caps. Jeffrey wears his American version of warmth—expedition weight Patagonia gear—but he still cannot feel his fingers or toes.

St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, RussaOnce he enters St. Basil’s Cathedral though, Moscow’s iconic nine-domed masterpiece, and he’s lead through a series of dim, narrow chambers, he is instantly warmed by what he sees transpiring behind closed doors. A small group of artists is painstakingly restoring the frescoes and woodwork of this magnificent16th century structure.

Jeffrey and his interpreter see a dark-haired woman perched high atop scaffolding, restoring the face of an angel on one of the domed ceilings. When the woman sees the two, she immediately stops what she’s doing and looks down from above.

Jeffrey simply smiles and says in his best Russian, “ZDRAST-vwee-tye” (hello). “KAK VAS za-VOOT” (what is your name)? “Menya zavut Jeffrey” (my name is Jeffrey).

She can tell by his clothing that he’s not Russian. A broad smile crosses her face when he continues with every Russian phrase he has learned. Even though his grammar is nowhere near perfect, his accent is strikingly authentic, and in a matter of minutes he has endeared himself to the artists around him.

Restoration of St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, RussiaIn no time they are all laughing and showing him into other back rooms, speaking to him in Russian as if he should understand every Cyrillic word. Jeffrey doesn’t need to comprehend a thing; their pride in what they are doing says everything.

It is a new era in Russia. Under Mikhail Gorbachev’s leadership and policy of Glasnost (openness and freer discussion of issues), the Russian Orthodox Church is slowly coming back to life.

Prior to Gorbachev, the Soviet regime was committed to the complete annihilation of religion. Based on the ideology of Marxism-Leninism, atheism was the official doctrine of the Soviet Union and it became a high priority for all Soviet leaders in the Communist Party.

Not only did the state destroy churches, mosques and temples, but it ridiculed, harassed and executed religious leaders, flooded the schools and media with atheistic propaganda, and promoted ‘scientific atheism’ as the truth that society should accept. And just like all private property, any Church-owned property that wasn’t destroyed, was confiscated and put into public use.

_____

When Jeffrey arrives in Moscow, he senses the delicate dance of the new political and social freedoms unfolding around him. Russians are clearly embracing change, but they’re also cautiously optimistic, knowing things could change again quickly during this turbulent political time.

Russian woman praying at a Russian Orthodox chuch in Moscow, RussiaDuring this assignment, Jeffrey photographs nearly a dozen churches—previously confiscated religious buildings that have been returned to the church–some still surrounded by barbed wire, some with gilded onion domes shimmering in all their glory, and some even holding  elaborate services once again.

As Jeffrey climbs up the rickety scaffolding inside St. Basil’s Cathedral to photograph the artist painstakingly restoring the frescoed ceiling, he knows he’s about to create an image that perfectly symbolizes the renaissance of the Russian Orthodox Church. One person at a time, one brush stroke at a time.

Russian Orthodox Church ceremony in Moscow, RussiaEleven months later, after the fall of the Soviet Union, the government of Russia begins to openly embrace the Russian Orthodox Church, and the number of the faithful rises once again in Russia.

The photograph above was created with a Nikon F4 camera, a Nikon 24mm lens, SB-16 flash, and Fuji Velvia film.

To view a few more of Jeffrey’s photographs of Russian Orthodox Churches, click on this link:  See More Churches

Advertisements

15 thoughts on “Thursday’s Picture of the Week: Russia

  1. Your words, “mind-numbing cold,” and “Jeffery climbs up the rickety scaffolding inside St. Basil’s Cathedral” put me in the scene. And it wasn’t a telescopic lens, he actually climbed the scaffolding to get that shot! What a man!

  2. Another fascinating story and photos. I love Russian churches. The way you describe it, I can feel the numbing cold myself. What a talented couple you make, and how lucky you are to have these photos and stories to tell. Absolutely beautiful. I feel more worldly each time I visit your blog. You’re opening our eyes in so many ways! Thanks!

  3. One more really nice post Becky. But what about #1. we are waiting for that one.
    Still this one is also too good. As always thank you for taking us to a different country, to a different culture through your blog.

  4. Becky, you and Jeffrey have done something most people haven’t with the short span of years they are gifted on this planet — really lived. When I read that Jeffrey tried to speak to that woman in Russian, it just shows that he was there, to be there. To really see. To appreciate. To learn and to grow. And your grasp of history and all its implications, woven together with the restoration within the cathedral — simply beautiful.

    I loved this line, “he is instantly warmed by what he sees transpiring behind closed doors.” I felt so cold! Reading the intro to this post. And with that line you took me right inside the real meaning of the story, and showed a deep level to Jeffrey’s personality.

    I feel so privileged to be a reader of your blog!

  5. As a former student of Russian (three years in college) and great fan of Russian literature, I love all cultural aspects of Russia. So thanks for this post, Becky. Beautiful, as always ~

  6. Hey, I won the photo contest. It’s no contest if you reveal all the photos! However, I would like to know about #1 and #4, too! Great job, Becky. Your husband has seen so much through his lens. Don’t forget, we appreciate stories about you, too. All joy.

    • YOU WON! YOU WON! YOU REALLY REALLY WON!! Congratulations, even if it was impossible to lose! Thanks for your input. I’ll be writing about #1 next week so stayed tuned. Also, you’ll be hearing a bit about me tool. Brace yourself! : -)

I'd love to hear what you think. Leave me a comment!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s